Just installed a little 1m light strip on the headboard of my bed to provide a brighter bounce-source in my room without needing to turn on the ceiling light. I may put the same soft pink gel on it as I have on my bedside lamp, we’ll see.

@s0 do you sleep in a Honda Civic c.1995 because that’s fully sick

@liamvhogan is this a drag. Are you dragging me. Leave me and my LEDs alone :blobcat_glare:

@s0 I am exactly of an age and class that this is not only a gigantic complement but also a touching nostalgic throwback

@s0 I hope the arrangement involves a subwoofer the diameter of an LP record

@s0 Ooh, I like this idea! Softer, more even lighting than my current reading lamp, which is basically a spot.

@petrichor seriously bounce lighting is sooo much easier on your eyes.

@ifixcoinops if I was building my own house, I’d have an electrical closet with modular dimming & control rack for all the lighting, and any switches & controls would run over twisted pair back to the rack. It would also have all the cat6 patches come out to there. And there’d be cable trays running along the ceiling to make it easy to add new cabling.

@ifixcoinops something along those lines, yes. Would have to compare the cost versus individual networked smart dimmers where they’re needed.

@s0 @ifixcoinops There are commercial systems for this (c-bus is the one I've been eyeing off, because of the reasonably open API). But there's also a cottage industry of DIYers doing this sort of thing with Arduinos. I like the stuff Jon Oxer's been building in his place.

Yes, we're seriously considering building a house this year, why do you ask? :)

@stibbons @ifixcoinops current thoughts are chucking one of these in each room/area, then a bunch of individual DALI/CBUS DC CV or CC dimmers on a DIN rail, then running ELV copper to various LEDs around the place.

@stibbons @ifixcoinops my idea being you sink money into the good quality, 10+ year lifetime AC-DC supply, and then can use cheaper stuff for all the DC level stuff and replace/upgrade it if needed without needing a licensed electrician.

@ifixcoinops @stibbons are you running WS2811/12 signal? Be aware that the 5V control line can get very unreliable over 3-5m in length. Partly about voltage drop but also reflections. You’ll need at the least a 150 ohm resistor in series at the LED end, and may need a dummy pixel (repeater) partway along.

@ifixcoinops @stibbons yeah I’ve spent quite some time freelancing with them and had to learn all the ins and outs.
A resistor is the right tool for reducing signal reflections.
There are also some proprietary devices that send the signalling over balanced signals over Cat5 cables (good for much longer distances) and then have a little remote breakout board that converts back to single-ended 5V signal for pixel string. They solve a lot of headaches if you have the budget.

@ifixcoinops @stibbons this is an Australian company I’ve used. Way overkill for your little indoor lights but if you’re doing bigger-than-Ben-hur Christmas lights...

@ifixcoinops @stibbons also be very careful with TRS cable — remember that the tip and ring on the plug will make contact with the sleeve and ring contacts in the connector when plugging/unplugging, potentially shorting them. I’d use a GX16 “aviation”/“microphone” connector instead.

@s0 This looks great! You just reminded me I haven't set up my bed LED strip since moving

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