Posted the 3D-printed sheave block I designed for small-scale theatrical rigging to Thingiverse so others can use it! thingiverse.com/thing:5027693

Woohoo, it’s working great! Finally, fume extraction I’m fairly happy with!

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The case for the brushless ESC for my fume extractor is coming together, just the bottom panel to go. It will mount upside compared to how it’s shown here, screwed into the underside of a shelf with the two flanges.

oh nice my CP2104 USB serial chips arrived, time to try to reflow them to replace the Chinese CH9102 that doesn't work properly on these breakout boards

Label design & printing went very well I think. The brother software’s vector symbols/shapes may be rudimentary, but with a bit of imagination you can convey a lot visually.
Also thanks to @ljwrites for suggesting Atkinson Hyperlegible font, I really dig its DIN-ish no nonsense technical attitude and of course, legibility.

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Just set up the Ubiquiti EdgeRouter Lite I scored second-hand on eBay for pretty cheap as home router, to replace the EdgeRouter X I'd had doing the job but borrowed from its permanent home.
I got the Lite because it actually has a USB flash drive internally with the storage on it -- so putting OpenWRT on it is ridiculously easy. Just copy the new kernel and squashfs over to the existing partitions, and boot!

OpenWRT worked great from the gate at setting up PPPoE and VLAN to my VDSL modem, obtaining IPv4 & v6 addresses, and delegating v6 prefix correctly. All told maybe an hour of server downtime while I got my firewall rules set up, compared to days of fucking around to get proper IPv6 on EdgeOS. Very happy with it.

Highly recommend these "Mini 360" miniature buck converters for applications where you'd otherwise use an LM7805 or similar VReg. For a few bucks they'll waste a lot less power and heat than a linear regulator and sink more current, while taking up basically the same space.

Yesterday I fixed up the design and added another part to clip directly around the rim of the Xiaomi air filter.
And today they finally finished printing! With just a little cleaning up it was ready to test. I’m very pleased.

The ducted fan slides into the flange mount with some persuasion (firm fit is good), the connector tube slides over the top with 2 locating slots, and the clip goes over the top of both, holding them firmly to the top of the filter.

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Oops new project idea: A better touchscreen frontend for DPS5005 et al. modules, that controls them over UARTs. Perhaps based on the EEZ Bench Box 3 mainboard & firmware??

Today at work I was asked to “have a look at that broken amplifier and see if it might be repairable.” When I enquired the symptoms, I was told “well, sparks come out the front when it turns on.”
Reader, this did not fill me with confidence for a prospective repair.

Can anyone spot the error I made last night in a rush to finish off this ducted fan mounting flange model to get the print going overnight?

Forgot to take any pictures, but last night I glued 2mm cork mat to the underside of Princess' bed heater. And she heats up much faster now, only a few minutes! It's also steadier and uses less power. It's very noticeable how much less the room gets heated up during a long print now.

Here’s the fan shroud and fan mounted on the procurve switch and wired into the original fan connector. I connected all the fan tachometer pins together so it won’t complain about having lost 3 of them, and now it happily runs nearly silently!

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Today's several hours of fusion360 modelling has been on this two-part shroud to use a quiet 80mm fan to cool a 1U HP Procurve switch, instead of the noisy 40mm fans inside.

Cardboard prototyping & testing is a crucial step of designing a new thing. This is a soldering fume extractor using a xiaomi air filter.

Hell yeah, my serial to parallel decoder “ParallelTender” for my HP 1661A logic analyser is working!

Designed a tray with handle to store/carry my programmable load in, rather than just the simple standoffs it comes with. It shouldn't negatively impact the cooling too much I hope, as it's mainly through the large phase-change heatsink and fans.

I love it when you’re repairing something, and there’s no clear indicator of what’s wrong, but you take a punt and turn out to be right.
Replaced the main load mosfet on this programmable load and it’s right back in working condition again. With silly LED fan cooler and everything.

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